Serengeti February 2014 Day 5 Feb 11

On moving days we get up early ~ it’s a long day but always an adventure. After breakfast, which Cam and Jeanne seemed to thoroughly enjoy, we left Oliver's Camp and Tarangire National Park and headed for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

One last not so clear look at our leopard from the night before. Unfortunately, we had to keep moving, as is often the case on a travel day. We may have seen some action if we had another day here, but...

The Maribou Storks were nice enough to assemble to see us off.

Another incredible experience. We came upon a herd of maybe 500 elephants, who were leaving the woodlands and heading towards the Tarangire River for a drink.

Unfortunately a photo can't describe the awe in seeing that many elephants in one place! 360 degrees of elephants!

A leucistic animal is not an albino, but one who is mostly without color. This leucistic Olive Baboon has brown eyes.

Aren't these guys are a little young for kissing and holding hands?

Howard's Hat! Indelibly burned into my vision as I rode behind him. He says it actually kept him quite cool. Notice the pet fly.

Howard & Mary, Bev & Mike, re-enacting a photo we took in 1995 on the patio of the Tarangire Lodge. We had to stop at the Lodge on the way out (this year) to get Paul's clutch fixed. Luckily the garage fixed it in about as much time as it took us to have cokes and beers, and to say hi to Annette, the owner.

More gas ~ and chili chips.

The Gate at the entrance to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

"Don't even think about it says Sharon !!. I know you guys will try to get into our car to steal cookies and M&M's, but Jo will be on guard and none of you will get by him...   Just ask him." 

"Not you, you little devil."

"Or you, you angel."

So, here's Jo, confidently guarding the car, except for one little detail. The passenger window was open. Sorry I don't have a photo of what happened next, but soon, both the little devil and the angel were inside the car, fighting each other over the M&M's, challenging and growling at Jo, thrashing thru the car, total mayhem ~ until Jo was able to grab a water bottle and thrash back at them.  Lots of yelling and growling from both sides! A valiant effort to protect those M&M's (and himself!)  but they got the loot and ran off.  Jo was luckily unscathed. 

Angel, my ass!!!

So it's up the rift valley wall to the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, which is actually a caldera, or collapsed volcano.

It's a blast, but can get a little hairy for our fearless drivers.

How many more group photos can I make them stand for? (They'll be happy the did)

View from the lookout - Ngorongoro Crater.

Lemala Tented Camp has been a regular stop on our trips. Situated on the Crater Rim (in the upper right in the photo above) on the road down to the Crater floor. It's expensive but offers the best route down into the crater (not till tomorrow morning) for early morning viewing.

A look inside the comfortable, spacious en-suite bathrooms inside the tent.

The tents are equipped with heaters and the beds with hot water bottles. It gets cold, even near the Equator, at 8,000 feet above sea level.

Look now, because tomorrow we are up and out before daylight. But not before another round of cocktails by the fire and dinner by candle light.

Serengeti February 2014 - Day 4 - February 10

A WALK IN THE PARK

After yesterday's long journey from Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge, through Arusha, and on to Oliver's Camp in Tarangire National Park, we sleep in a little before a full breakfast in camp.

The morning of our first day at Oliver’s Camp is always reserved for a walk. As we were driving in the night before we came upon a herd of at least 500 Cape Buffalo, so in the morning we set out on foot to find them. 

Lewis, the camp’s walking guide assured us that we would catch up with them ~ we could see them several kilometers away ~ I had my doubts. Sure enough, a few hours later we were within a few hundred meters! on foot! Lewis said “Let’s sit down here. They can’t stand it. Their curiosity will bring them back to us.” 

And they did! What a thrill.

Unfortunately when there are lions around, you don’t want to be the slow buffalo. 

Before setting out on an afternoon game drive, how about a little home made coffee cake with your tea?

Spotted Thick-knee 

Banded Mongoose on the lookout.

Near the Silale Swamp we could here the Vervet Monkeys screaming up a storm  ~ alarm calls ~ "a predator is nearby!" That Jo even spotted him was beyond belief. Look closely.

But he did “cheat” a little.

A magnificent creature

Oliver’s Camp dining area (open air)  and guest tents.

After cocktails by the fire and dinner, we retire to our tents and a long night of lions roaring, hyenas laughing, zebras barking. Tomorrow is another long day, but the drive out of Tarangire, up the rift wall, up into the Ngorongoro Crater Highlands, along the Crater Rim, to our night at Lemala Tented Camp is spectacular.

Serengeti February 2014 - Day 3 - February 9, 2014

Our first day of real adventure. After a breakfast of fruit, yogurt, cereals, and any egg/bacon/sausage combo one could ask for, we leave the black and white Guereza Colobus Monkeys of Ngare Sero behind. After a stop in Arusha for Chili Chips and Pringles (yes Pringles) we head for Tarangire National Park. 

Along the way to the "new" Oliver's Camp, we stopped for a beer a junction called Kibaoni, at a bar owned by Godfrey, one of Paul’s former employees at the original Oliver's Camp. Godfrey has become a leader in this small town. 

I always loved this sign. After several hours we make it to the main gate at Tarangire. Another three hours to Oliver’s Camp.

Was this an Abyssinian or a European Roller? Are the wing tips black or blue? We don’t know yet - the photos went to the experts. An important part of our trips are the natural history discussions we have along the way.

Everyone remembers their first elephant.

Elephants use their ears to cool the blood.

How close can we get?!!

A few hours in we reach the Silale Swamp and a beautiful lioness, posing for us.

Hey Liz and Sharon, are we having fun yet?

The end of a long day is often rewarded with a great sunset.

And, just before camp, the final present from a beautiful day, a pair of Verreaux's Eagle-Owls. The light wasn’t great, but you get the idea.

Serengeti February 14 - Days 1 & 2 - February 7, 8 2014

After months of planning and hundreds of emails the day has come. Excited, our binoculars and passports in hand (when you get right down to it the only two items really required for a safari), we head to Logan Airport in Boston for an overnight flight to Amsterdam. I never relax until the bags are checked, we have our boarding passes, and the bar is open. 

Bev and I are fortunate in that we can sleep on the plane - highly recommended to everyone. Delta Airlines to Amsterdam, KLM to Arusha. Pre-order the Asian Vegetarian in-flight meals.

  

After an overnight flight, Bev & Mike, Mary & Howard and Liz rendezvous with Jeanne & Cam, and Sharon in the coffee shop outside the Casino at Amsterdam’s Schiphol International Airport. Cappuccino & baked goods.

We like the right side of the plane going down to Kilimanjaro International Airport.   

(Left side, BOS to AMS, for the sunrise; right side, JRO to AMS, again for the sunrise; and right side, AMS to BOS, for views of Newfoundland and the St Lawrence Seaway. In the way back, where the wing doesn't obstruct the view)

So, leaving Amsterdam, first it’s the Swiss Alps.

Then an astounding three hours when we see nothing but desert - the Sahara - except when we cross the Nile - a little water, a little green.

Finally a sunset as we approach Mount Kilimanjaro and cross the border from Kenya to Tanzania. 

Our guides pick us up for the 45 minute trip to Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge, on the slopes of Mount Meru, just outside Arusha. (We’ll show you Ngare Sero photos when we write about our last day). We settle in for a delightful, hard-earned light supper (cheese, soup, salad) and a few beers at about 11PM, then, exhausted, right to bed. Tomorrow’s another long day, but everyone is very excited and thrilled with our first oasis to rest up for tomorrow’s adventure.